Las Terrenas

Las Terrenas is the main beach town on the north coast of the Samaná Peninsula and the place most visitors base themselves. What started as a fishing village grew, from the 1970s onward, into a laid-back international town with a large French, Italian and Canadian expat community. You hear French in the bakeries, eat wood-fired pizza next to Dominican comedores (simple lunch spots), and get around on foot, by bicycle or on the back of a motoconcho (motorbike taxi).

The town sits right on the beach. The central town beach runs into Playa Las Ballenas to the west and Punta Popy to the east, so most hotels and apartments are a short walk from the sand. A few minutes further west are Playa Bonita, with its small hotels and surf, and the long, quiet Playa Cosón. East of town, El Portillo is home to the family all-inclusive Bahia Principe Explore El Portillo.

Where you stay shapes the trip. Central Las Terrenas is best if you want to walk to restaurants and bars and do not plan to rent a car. Playa Bonita suits travelers who want small independent hotels and surf with town still close. Cosón is for space and quiet, with the adults-only Viva V Samana and upscale Sublime Samaná. Villas and apartment rentals are common across all three areas.

Food is the town's strong point. The Pueblo de los Pescadores, the old fishermen's village by the river mouth, is now a row of seafront restaurants including the French favorite La Terrasse, and El Lugar on Calle 27 de Febrero is a popular choice for wood-fired dinners. There are supermarkets, bakeries, pharmacies and ATMs in town.

Las Terrenas is also a good base for day trips: the El Limón waterfall is about half an hour east, and tour operators run whale watching, Los Haitises and Playa Rincón trips with hotel pickup.

Getting here: Samaná El Catey International Airport (AZS) is roughly 30 to 45 minutes away by road. From Santo Domingo's Las Américas airport (SDQ) it is about 2 to 2.5 hours on the toll highway and the Boulevard Turístico del Atlántico.

Best for: independent travelers, couples, foodies, kitesurfers and surfers, families renting villas, and anyone who wants a town rather than a resort. Not ideal for: travelers who want a large resort with everything on site (El Portillo is the one big option) or total quiet (central Las Terrenas has nightlife on weekends).