Bayahíbe

Bayahíbe started as a fishing village, founded in 1874 by families from Puerto Rico, and it still feels like one at its core: small colorful houses, wooden boats pulled up on the sand, colmados (corner stores) playing bachata in the evening. About 16 kilometers east of La Romana, it is now the main base for boat trips into the Parque Nacional del Este and the dive capital of the south-east coast, with around 5,600 residents.

Life in the village revolves around the pier and Bayahíbe Beach. Every morning, speedboats and catamarans load up for Isla Saona and Isla Catalina, and dive boats head out to the reefs and the St. George wreck. By late afternoon the boats are back, the tour groups have gone, and the village slows down. Evenings are low-key: seafood dinners by the water, a few bars, and sunset over the bay. There is no real nightlife beyond that, which is the appeal for most people who choose it.

Where to stay: the village has small hotels, guesthouses and apartment rentals at prices well below the all-inclusives, many run by Italian or European owners who settled here. Just north-west, on the same coast, Secrets La Romana and Dreams La Romana sit on the resort stretch of Bayahíbe Beach. The bigger resort zone of Dominicus is a few minutes south.

Getting around is easy on foot within the village. Motoconchos (motorbike taxis) and local taxis cover short trips to Dominicus; agree the fare first. The road out to the highway is in good condition, and La Romana International Airport is around 20 to 25 minutes away by car. Punta Cana airport is about an hour to an hour and a quarter.

Trade-offs: the village beach is small and busy in the mornings, and some streets are unpaved and dusty. Cash is useful, as smaller places may not take cards. If you want a long white beach outside your door every day, stay in Dominicus. If you want to dive, snorkel and do the island trips while eating in local restaurants, Bayahíbe is the better base. Try the restaurants near the waterfront, such as Restaurante Típico La Bahía, for fresh fish.